Mark Weston is quietly rewriting the foundations of menswear at Dunhill
It was intelligent of Mark Weston and his group at Dunhill to current the designer's SS22 assortment not as a conventional runway present – as would normally occur in Paris on the final day of town's style week – however quite as a presentation and dinner on the model's chi-chi base in London's Mayfair, Bourdon Home, on Friday night time.
Not solely did it permit the handful of company, which included the star of BBC hit Trade Harry Lawtey and actor Ed Skrein, to stand up shut and private with the brand new assortment (if you understand something about Weston's Dunhill, you'll know that it's all about fondling the materials) however it additionally ensured that everybody in attendance was sufficiently fed and watered: two necessary components to contemplate if you would like wayward style editors and celebrities to give attention to the impeccable lower of your fits and coats.
Weston needn't have anxious, nevertheless. Throughout his four-year tenure on the Richemont-owned label, the designer has been quietly making a case for his particular model of recent menswear and the gathering he introduced on Friday night time was his most achieved but.
Outsized go well with jackets lower from crisp mohair had been teamed with leather-based trousers and the form of luxurious “chasseur” cardis worn by rich Parisian grandmothers to church on Sunday. The wedding of custom, edgy modernity and exhausting luxurious made for one thing that felt really contemporary and new.
Elsewhere, basic fits – the trousers of which had been completed with Weston's attribute hem slits – had been worn with loose-knit wrap cardigans created from heavyweight cashmere. Laborious and comfortable, naughty and good: the success of the gathering was outlined by Weston's acute consideration to intelligent distinction.
Doused within the petroleum fumes of its automotive previous, Dunhill is a nut that many proficient menswear designers have tried (and oftentimes failed) to crack. What Weston has quietly achieved in his brief time on the model is to marry the deep-rooted conventional components of the label together with his personal modern design touchstones, affording it a brand new rigour and relevance.
Trench coats – a tailoring staple lengthy a part of the Dunhill canon – are modernised with roomy cuts, on-trend belt baggage are completed with locking mechanisms impressed by these discovered on the doorways of basic vehicles and playful high-vis jackets (the form of factor one would possibly hope to don if one's Rolls broke down on the Grand Corniche) had been lower from the best silk faille, Weston's most popular different to nylon.
“There’s a reverence for Dunhill on this assortment, however it’s the redefinition of it in a up to date context in order to be related at the moment,” Weston advised me of his SS22 providing. "It’s about character and id, about masculine identities and the way numerous they’re, the codes, meanings and cultural variations. There are British model components I’m all the time interested by. Enjoying with these parameters and references is what actually drives me. Some grow to be highlighted or extra predominant every season. As an illustration, the utility sensibility is there once more, notably within the hi-vis jackets."
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