One thing depraved this manner got here for Saint Laurent SS22
Final evening Anthony Vaccarello mounted his Spring/Summer time 2022 menswear assortment for Saint Laurent – the Kering-owned model he’s creatively helmed since 2016 – on Venice’s verdant island of La Certosa, a brief boat journey away from the centre of town.
The backdrop, steeped in historical past, felt an appropriate setting for the gathering, which was layered, like a medieval tapestry, with deliciously gothic items (suppose billowing satin capes, slim-cut monochromatic fits, and billowing satin shirts with pussy bows and piecrust collars).
Moody, edgy and never slightly witchy, the gathering had shades of the 1973 Venice-based horror movie Don’t Look Now about it, with lashings of snails and pet canines tails thrown in for good measure.
Throughout his five-year tenure at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello has labored exhausting to outline his particular model of Gallic cool. The place Hedi Slimane earlier than him specialised in elevating basic menswear fundamentals (razor-edged peacoats, crotch-crushingly skinny denims, body-con tuxedos), Vaccarello has, in current seasons, moved in an eerier course.
For Spring/Summer time 2022 the temper reached its spooky zenith. Gauzy chemises in pastel hues had been worn with thigh-clinging lamé trousers, capacious satin pyjama fits got here teamed with metallic babouche slippers, and densely embroidered waistcoat-cum-doublets had been paired with double-wrap belts, like fits of sartorial armour. On most toes, ultra-pointed leather-based sabatons had been completed with eyelet fastenings.
It’s debatable that the gathering felt fairly so edgy as a result of the ultra-sharp tailoring which walked the sun-drenched runway was at such aesthetic odds with the stuffy, fluffy, cosy stuff we’ve all been sporting day in day trip for the previous yr and a half – however it’s an argument we’ve made advert nauseum, so we received’t make it once more, for concern of being cursed.
In a futuristic distinction to the vêtements anciens that stalked the present, the runway was mounted inside a large-scale set up by American artist Doug Aitken. Titled “Inexperienced Lens”, the mirrored construction – like a cooler tackle The Crystal Maze – mirrored the luxurious botanical setting planted round it.
“The concept of the collaboration with Doug Aitken began from my want to mix inventive disciplines throughout artwork and vogue to merge completely different fields’ inventive visions in a singular paintings. The whole lot begins from mutual respect and admiration; the remaining is a pure consequence,” Vaccarello informed us following the present. “What’s vital to me is to have the ability to form my imaginative and prescient. I naturally respect the model historical past and its archive, because it has been a part of my very own imaginative and prescient since ever, so it turns into naturally constant.”
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