
The 16 largest Autumn/Winter 2021 traits for males
It’s that point of 12 months once more, individuals. This season’s garments strutted their manner down the style world’s newly digitised runways a superb six months in the past and now we’re right here, like an unerringly trendy good friend, to information you thru the stuff you need to be sporting now that it’s hit the outlets.
It’s been an odd 12 months, to say the least, and it’s been a state of affairs that has had a direct affect on the garments the designers selected to point out and, in flip, the items clients are shopping for. The consequence? A newly informal focus at manufacturers corresponding to Prada, Fendi and Zegna, and collections that, as a consequence, are extra intriguing than ever earlier than.
The reality stays, nonetheless, that no matter occurs this winter (all pray for no extra lockdowns. Now), shopping for fantastically made garments that you simply’ll wish to put on eternally (we’re you, knitted jacquard lengthy johns from Prada) will all the time make you significantly really feel higher in regards to the world.
Pleased buying.
1. Purple alert

From left: Casablanca, Isabel Marant, ERL, Canali, Alyx, Louis Vuitton, Wooyoungmi, Etudes, Jil Sander, Wales Bonner, Ermenegildo Zegna
Flashes of purple have been making a splash on the runways of London, Paris and Milan for a while now, however for AW21 the development has gone full tilt. Maybe it was as a consequence of the truth that designers had been determined to catch our consideration as we watched the season’s reveals by our laptop computer screens or perhaps it’s as a result of we’re all in want of some color proper now. Both manner, this winter could be very a lot about making a sartorial splash with shades of scarlet, vermillion and cherry. The important thing to getting the look proper is to select one shiny merchandise and preserve every part else impartial. At Alyx designer Matthew Williams confirmed postbox-red bomber jackets, at Louis Vuitton and ERL it was all about surprising purple greatcoats, whereas at Jil Sander and Casablanca coral purple tailoring was the factor.
The killer piece:

Shirt by Jacquemus, £305. At matchesfashion.com
2. Skirts and tunics and kilts, oh, my!

From left: Dries Van Noten, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Louis Vuitton, JW Anderson, Wales Bonner
This season, the world's most outstanding menswear designers have put skirts, kilts, tunics and tubular tabards on the centre of their AW21 collections. At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh despatched out a collection of fashions sporting A-line kilted skirts over trousers, whereas at JW Anderson, pleated frocks for males rubbed hems with outsized jodhpurs. At Dries Van Noten and Wales Bonner, outsized smock shirts had been worn within the model of column tunics and at Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, trousers had been minimize so vast they did the job of maxi attire.
Relating to sporting your personal skirt, kilt or tunic, we advocate choosing one thing that sits just under the knee, completed with a pleat for added texture. And, provided that it's winter, you're in all probability greatest choosing a mode minimize from wool, cashmere or tweed. Issues are liable to get a bit breezy down there, in any case.
The killer piece:

Kilt by Burberry, £690. burberry.com
3. Knitted polos a-go-go

From left: Ermenegildo Zegna, Hermès, Jil Sander, Isabel Marant, Prada
There was barely a designer who selected to point out a basic poplin shirt this season, for the pretty apparent motive that we're unlikely to have anyplace to put on something so starchy any time quickly. The answer, as alighted on by a wide selection of the largest manufacturers that confirmed, got here within the type of spongy knitted polo shirts. That includes all of the requisite components of a basic shirt (level collars, plackets, buttons) with not one of the crinkly discomfort, one of the best could possibly be present in heavy gauge cashmeres and shiny shades at Jil Sander and Prada, and in softer lighter constructions (however with no much less color and verve) at Fendi and Hermès.
The killer piece:

Polo shirt by Maison Margiela, £790. At matchesfashion.com
4. The rise of day-spa stylish

From left: Ermenegildo Zegna, Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander, Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Louis Vuitton
It ought to maybe come as little shock that a number of the smarter designers selected to lean in absolutely to our former collective dwelling and dealing at house scenario this season, with many highlighting wraparound takes on conventional tailor-made objects. At Ermenegildo Zegna, inventive director Alessandro Sartori devoted his total assortment to the magnificence of the dressing robe, displaying belted coats and blazers minimize lining-free, from mushy knitted materials; at Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi offered dressing gown-esque coats minimize from quilted supplies; and at Louis Vuitton, Abloh confirmed what seemed like precise dressing robes worn out onto the runway by fashions holding cups of espresso and LV-branded newspapers. Our kingdom for a spa weekend.
The killer piece:

Coat by Louis Vuitton, £3,900. louisvuitton.com
5. Posh wellies simply acquired posher

From left: MSGM, GMBH, Dior, Wooyoungmi, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Jil Sander, Tod’s
Costly takes on basic wellington boots had been massive information for Autumn/Winter 2020 and so they’ll be again with a splash this season too. At Tod's, nascent(ish) inventive director Walter Chiapponi confirmed a really literal tackle a basic gumboot, which seemed like one thing Princess Anne would have enjoyable stomping round Gatcombe Park in, whereas elsewhere – at Jil Sander and Dior, particularly – the look was altogether sleeker, with lace-up kinds on the former and boots completed with military-slim shafts on the former. The important thing to sporting this new breed of wellington boot is to maintain your silhouette slim on the backside and voluminous on high. Meaning tucking your trousers in and going all out within the overcoat division. Which brings us neatly on to…
The killer piece:

Boots by Tod’s, £390. tods.com
6. The return of the ditch coat

From left: Ermenegildo Zegna, Dries Van Noten, Fendi, Louis Vuitton
After all, trench coats are nothing new – certainly the Spring/Summer time 2021 collections featured a proliferation of souped-up takes on the basic outerwear form. For Autumn/Winter 2021, nonetheless, it’s about going again to fundamentals. Assume voluminous rain coats minimize from basic gabardine lined with jazzy prints and completed with all of the requisite flaps and buckles – as per the unique trench coats worn by navy officers. The perfect of this season's trenches could be discovered at Louis Vuitton, the place Virgil Abloh confirmed his extra-oversized, Dries Van Noten and Fendi. Although if doubtful, head to Burberry and be performed with it.
The killer piece:

Coat by Fendi, £5,200. fendi.com
7. The Nineties known as. It desires its sweater vests again

From left: Etro, Fendi, MSGM, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Wales Bonner, A-Chilly-Wall*, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
Half-latter seasons Ross from Pals, part-Wallace of Wallace & Gromit fame, knitted sweater vests with a clunky wartime enchantment (suppose lockdown-chic circa the flu pandemic of 1918) are huge information for Autumn/Winter 2021. From the natty Honest Isle-inspired items worn with contrasting sweaters and polo shirts at Hermès and Wales Bonner to the extra fashionable takes at A-Chilly-Wall*, Jil Sander and Prada (the place, in our opinion, one of the best could possibly be discovered), in relation to sporting your personal sweater vest subsequent winter, our recommendation is to lean in to the grandad vibes, as a result of the chances are we’re going to be equally as housebound then as we at the moment are (sobs) and luxury will nonetheless be key.
The killer piece:

Sweater vest by Maison Margiela, £620. At matchesfashion.com
8. Fits, however not as you recognize them

From left: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Louis Vuitton, Ermenegildo Zegna, GMBH, Wooyoungmi, Dior, OAMC, Prada, Paul Smith, Casablanca
Most designers forewent basic tailoring this season (nobody wants a double-breasted work swimsuit when working from the couch), however many did resolve to point out one type of two-piece or one other higher suited to lockdown life. Enter the non-suit. Outlined by an identical high and backside minimize from tailoring materials and devoid of restrictive padding, canvasing and conventional lapels (there was, in actual fact, a Maoist allure to lots of them), one of the best could possibly be discovered minimize from sharkskin at Prada and Paul Smith, in spongy double-faced wool at Jil Sander and, after all, in deliciously pleated poly-blend on the model that mastered the non-suit lengthy earlier than anybody else, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
The killer piece:
Trousers by Homme Plisse Issey Miyake, £310. Jacket by Homme Plisse Issey Miyake, £595. Each at matchesfashion.com
9. Powerful-ass leather-based

From left: Loewe, Casablanca, Prada, Fendi, GMBH
A tough world requires laborious outerwear, which is probably why the overwhelming majority of the largest menswear designers selected to chop their most tautly tailor-made overcoats this season from heavy-duty leather-based. From the outsized choices at GMBH and Loewe, to the Nineteen Seventies-inspired kinds at Casablanca and Paul Smith – not forgetting the scrumptious lacquered quantity, with requisite assertion buttons, at Prada – subsequent season, if you happen to're not sporting leather-based, you're not coming in (which is okay actually, as all that animal disguise will preserve you heat effectively into the wee hours).
The killer piece:

Bomber jacket by Prada, £4,500. prada.com
10. Salopettes within the metropolis

From left: ERL, Dries Van Noten, Fendi, MSGM, Wooyoungmi
It's unlikely many people went snowboarding final spring (fingers crossed for subsequent), however that doesn't imply you may't nonetheless costume such as you're out on the slopes while you're within the metropolis, notably if you happen to're indulging in a bit of fake après over Zoom this lockdown – digital fondue celebration, anybody? Enter the brand new breed of ultra-padded, down-filled employee trousers, designed particularly with extra-cold climate in thoughts. The perfect in present could possibly be discovered at Fendi, Dries Van Noten and ERL.
The killer piece

Trousers by ERL, £630. At mytheresa.com
11. Social gathering pyjamas

From left: ERL, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Études, Fendi, A-Chilly-Wall*, Prada
Simply as a number of the cleverer manufacturers have launched Individuals's Republic-inspired non-suits for Autumn/Winter 2021 – prepared and ready for these extra formal Zoom conferences – a number of different manufacturers have reimagined the standard pyjama in sexed-up hues and slinky materials. At Dior, the piped navy fits in mohair had a sleepwear-infused enchantment, whereas at A-Chilly-Wall*, ERL and Prada, knitted two-pieces, onesies and lengthy johns seemed like simply the factor to hunker down in till lockdown is completed.
The killer piece

Trousers by Prada, £1,450. prada.com
12. Teeny-tiny man luggage

From left: Etro, A-Chilly-Wall*, Fendi, Wooyoungmi, OAMC, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
Positive, huge suitcases and stylish briefcases had been nice when the world was open for enterprise, however as of late, when probably the most thrilling journey we’re more likely to make all week is to the native nook store, we’re much more in want of sensible equipment designed for carrying solely the essential necessities. It’s a degree that the world’s menswear designers have famous for AW21, with most manufacturers sending out no less than one or two fashions adorned with teeny-tiny luggage worn round their necks and throughout their our bodies. From the cross-body pillboxes at OAMC and Wooyoungmi to cellphone carriers worn like necklaces at Italian manufacturers Etro and Fendi, it’s a brand new breed of high-function life gear that's completely proportioned to carry not solely our important electronics, however our face masks and hand sanitisers too.
The killer piece

Bag by Etro, £125. etro.com
13. Rollnecks. For winter. Groundbreaking

From left: Dior, Brunello Cucinelli, Dior, Wooyoungmi, Fendi, Etro, Hermès, Canali, Jil Sander, OAMC
Positive, rollnecks are nothing new, however for Autumn/Winter 2021 it’s much less in regards to the garment itself and extra about the way you put on it. The important thing to getting the look proper is to layer with abandon, as demonstrated at Jil Sander, the place chunky turtlenecks had been worn beneath tonal knitted shirts and bonded overcoats in contrasted patterns, at Prada, the place impartial rollnecks had been worn beneath chunky polo shirts and jacquard physique stockings, and at Korean label Wooyoungmi, the place slouchy fine-gauge funnel neck sweaters, in shades of periwinkle and plum, had been worn with overcoats and jackets in just-complementary hues.
The killer piece

Sweater by Ami, £340. At matchesfashion.com
14. Assertion sweaters FTW

From left: Etro, Casablanca, Dior, Hermès, Loewe, Tod’s, Prada, Canali
All of us wore daggy sweatshirts and roomy jumpers with maybe extra regularity than we’d have appreciated final winter. It was a state of affairs which means we now want to begin making up for misplaced time by imbuing stated clothes with a brand new sense of brightness, boldness and enjoyable, in an effort to preserve our spirits (and, importantly, the spirits of these round us) up. Introducing the brand new breed of assertion sweater. From the Matisse-style major color prints on cashmere sweaters at Hermès, to the mohair crewnecks that function Peter Doig prints at Dior, the choices are many and the temper is upbeat, so don't get overlooked within the chilly.
The killer piece

Sweater by Dior, £1,900. dior.com
15. Chilly out, legs out

From left: Dries Van Noten, A-Chilly-Wall*, Etro, Loewe, Fendi, MSGM
Normally the protect of summer time collections and, effectively, summer time collections solely, a wide selection of Bermuda-style shorts minimize in wintry materials made shock appearances on the AW21 runways. Much less designed to be worn with sandals and a tan, nonetheless, most of the aforementioned shorts had a plus fours vibe about them and seemed as prepared for a day trip stalking as they did a day on the seaside. From the wealthy leather-based shorts at Fendi that seemed like one thing the Queen would possibly put on to Balmoral if she was feeling notably fancy, to the gray cashmere home shorts proven at Dries Van Noten, subsequent winter is all about getting your legs out, sure, however retaining the remainder of your self heat whereas doing so. If doubtful suppose Nineties rugby dad on the sidelines.
The killer piece
Shorts by Dries van Noten, £460. At mrporter.com
16. Dressing like a Werther’s Authentic

From left: Etro, Etudes, Fendi, Wooyoungmi, Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Officine Générale, Tod’s
Half impressed by the Nineteen Seventies-infused temper that has been circling the world's menswear runways for the previous few seasons, half influenced – it will appear – by an old style confectionary favorite, most of the greatest appears from the AW21 runways got here imbued with a head-to-toe caramel hue. The important thing look to notice for this specific development is the honeycomb-coloured corduroy employee swimsuit proven by Walter Chiapponi at Tod's. It's a factor of septuagenarian-inspired magnificence.
The killer piece

Hooded sweater by Louis Vuitton, £2,310. louisviutton.com
Now learn
Autumn/Winter 2021 is all about dressing like a weekend royal
For Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons AW21 it’s all about collaboration (and coats)
Paul Smith AW21: ‘We’re about garments for individuals’