The most important Spring/Summer season 2021 traits for males

Right here at GQ we saved our eagle eyes educated on our screens on the Spring/Summer season 2021 exhibits – which occurred final June – and, in flip, distilled all the important thing seems that you need to be shopping for proper now. From new utility to neo-neon, there’s a plethora of high-octane masculine vogue to select from. 

(Notice: as some designers have proven Spring/Summer season 2021 collections and others have proven Resort, we’ve included quite a lot of seems from the latter collections to your reference.)

1. New utility

The utility development has been doing the rounds for a number of seasons now, with the safari jacket obsession reaching fever pitch on the Spring/Summer season 2020 exhibits. Now, for Spring/Summer season 2021, the look has been up to date with extra of an all-round “high-function” vibe. From the military-man-meets-twitcher-in-town subject jackets at Gucci and Zegna (reduce from canvas on the former and leather-based on the latter) to the all-over safari seems at Balmain and that insanely luxurious crocodile subject jacket at Dior, this summer time it’s all about wanting such as you’re popping out of the apocalypse combating (which you form of can be). 

The killer piece

The styling word

“Staff this jacket – which with its breathable Ventile building was designed particularly for outside pursuits – with a pair of washed denim denims in a blue that's a shade or two lighter, plus an oatmeal cable knit sweater and a pair of duck boots. You would even change it up with a sapphire-hued silk Hermès neckerchief, for full 'Truman Capote goes nation' impact.” Teo van den Broeke, Fashion Director, GQ

2. Nautical

Maybe extra of a micro development, this, however nautical notes appeared at quite a lot of exhibits, together with the anchor-covered intarsia-knit sweaters at Gucci, exaggerated Breton-style tops at Dolce & Gabbana (the place they have been teamed with tailor-made separates in holiday-ready hues) and sailor sweaters on the typically sun-soaked Casablanca present. 

The killer piece

The styling word

“One of many best clothes to put on in your summer time wardrobe, this fine-gauge Breton sweater from APC is arch-Gallic-style to the final. Put on with a pair of caramel Bermuda shorts and a pair of male Mary Janes from Hereu on hotter days and with a pair of slim-cut white denims and chi-chi Hermès loafers when the solar goes in.” TvdB

3. The return of the bomber jacket

Bomber jackets are going to be massive for Spring/Summer season 2021. And although this will not sound like information to you (bombers? For spring? Groundbreaking), the reality is that there have been extra takes on the traditional aviator jacket on the SS21 exhibits than we may rely on two palms. From the Nineteen Seventies-style cropped bomber jackets in practical nylon at Gucci to the traditional high-shine flight jackets at Philipp Plein and the cropped minimalist bombers at each Prada and Hermès, there was a neatness to the look which felt much less maximalist than it has in earlier seasons (and all the higher for it). 

The killer piece

The styling word

“Impressed by the jackets historically worn by American fighter pilots in the course of the final century, this bomber – which is a part of Moncler's ongoing collaboration with Japanese model Fragment – has been given an agro, bovver boy twist by means of its black satin fabrication. In your legs needs to be a pair of closely bleached denims (look to Celine) and in your ft? A pair of huge stomper boots. Prada, ideally.” TvdB

4. Go broad or go house

For SS21, just about each menswear designer price their thread despatched out an array of ultra-wide trousers. Some, resembling these at Zegna and Casablanca, have been reduce with a classy, latter-day Yves Saint Laurent look in thoughts – pleated and draped with a fluidity demonstrating the tailoring prowess of each the aforementioned homes. At Gucci and Hermès, trousers have been reduce excessive and with a retro vibe, whereas at MSGM, Dolce & Gabbana and Rick Owens the look was sportier, with cargo and tracksuit-style trousers reduce with room sufficient for 2. 

The killer piece

The styling word

“Broad-legged trousers can look like a problem to put on, however the important thing – as ever – is within the reduce. These with shorter legs ought to go for one thing extra syrupy in building, which doesn't intensify the hips, whereas longer, leggier sorts can go for one thing such because the Bottega pair above. The pleats will encourage the material to hold in a flattering approach. In terms of the break, it's both full-on puddle or hems kissing the tongue. Nothing in between.” TvdB

5. It’s all about an outsized trench coat

Everybody is aware of {that a} trench coat is a springtime staple, however for Spring/Summer season 2021 the look has been up to date with a voluminous twist. At Wooyoungmi, Tod’s and Loewe, papery trenches in shades of stone and caramel had a Nineteen Seventies flavour, whereas trenches in hues of dusty rose and midnight blue dominated at MSGM, Ermenegildo Zegna and Études respectively. The important thing to carrying your individual outsized trench coat is to group it with sudden equipment. A pair of shorts in your legs and pool slides in your ft, maybe, or, failing that, nothing however a smile (joke). 

The killer piece

The styling word

“The perfect factor a couple of traditional Burberry Trench is that it’s going to work with absolutely anything. On lowkey days group yours with a gray marl tracksuit and sandals and once you're feeling fancier go to your life with a full swimsuit, in a brown or charcoal, ideally. However like I say, go to your life.” TvdB

6. Huge and daring Bermuda shorts 

Bermuda shorts have began making extra of an look on the world’s runways of late, however for SS21 the look actually comes into its personal, with the overall temper being virtually excessive in its soft-hued summery-ness. At Casablanca, MSGM and Zegna, shorts have been tailor-made in shades of sea foam, lilac and candyfloss, whereas at Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci patterns prevailed. The important thing to carrying your individual Bermudas this summer time is to choose a pair that end simply above the knee and to make an announcement along with your footwear. Some white operating trainers worn with tube socks, as an example, or a pair of this season’s strongest dad sandals. 

The killer piece

The styling word

“For my part your Bermudas will work greatest with a tucked-in outsized tee – one thing logo-heavy and hypey from Balenciaga or Vetements would work effectively – after which subvert the agro temper with a pair of T-bar loafers in your ft. You'll seem like a monster truck with stabilisers – in a great way."  TvdB

7. Assertion shirts

There was a basic temper towards playful and artistic shirting at this season’s exhibits, from traditional poplin types that have been reduce into voluminous trapezoid shapes (as they have been at Wooyoungmi and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake) to the tucked, twisted and customarily messed-with origami-style shirts at Dolce & Gabbana and Hermès. A press release shirt, worn alone or over a vest or tee, is the best strategy to personal it within the model stakes this summer time. 

The killer piece

The styling word

"The great thing about this shirt, which is a part of Dior's creative director of menswear Kim Jones' collaboration with artist Peter Doig, is that it's so stunning you may actually put on nothing else with it and it wouldn't matter. In the event you don't plan on getting arrested, nevertheless, go for a pair of soppy pink shorts in your legs and tan leather-based sandals from Historical Greek Sandals or Hermès in your ft.” TvdB

8. The Nineteen Seventies redux

Because of the likes of Alessandro Michele at Gucci and Hedi Slimane at Celine (to not point out Harry Types in life typically), there’s been lots product of the Nineteen Seventies model resurgence prior to now few years. And it confirmed no signal of slowing at this season’s menswear exhibits. From the big range of high-colour flared corduroys and denims at Gucci to the flocked safari fits at Casablanca and the cropped caramel leather-based bombers (worn with open-neck shirts – very Starsky) at Tod’s, you’d be effectively suggested to not throw away your outsized aviator shades simply but. 

The killer piece

The styling word

"This black lambskin blouson from Celine would possibly are available in at about the identical worth as a small automobile, however for good motive, because it'll final you the remainder of your life – or at the very least till the Nineteen Seventies development comes round once more and relaxation assured it should. Staff with some high-waisted denims, black or stonewash, and a pair of Cuban-heeled boots. Large gold aviators completely not elective.” TvdB

9. Neo-neon

Neon, maybe unsurprisingly, shouldn’t be the best color development on the earth to tug off. That being stated, when you get it proper, it might actually work. For inspiration, look to a few of Paris’ greatest manufacturers this season. At Dior, Kim Jones despatched out neon-flecked employee jackets and fluorescent-yellow romper fits at his Amoako Boafo-inspired present, whereas each Hermès and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake featured shiny neon separates teamed with muted tailoring – which is precisely the way in which you need to be carrying this development too. 

The killer piece

The styling word

"In the event you're sartorially audacious sufficient to put on a pair of neon Louis Vuitton trainers I'm going to imagine you realize what you're doing.” TvdB

10. Pastel splash

We’ve stated it as soon as and we’ll say it once more: pastels for spring really work. And for SS21 it’s simpler than ever to get your palms on pastel items you’ll wish to put on time and again. From the candyfloss-hued two-piece fits on display at Gucci and Ermenegildo Zegna to the sea-foam-tinted knitted separates at Prada (which seemed like simply the gear for working from house), this season when you’re not carrying shades of dusty rose, Dijon mustard and periwinkle (ideally abruptly), you’re doing it incorrect. 

The killer piece

The styling word

"This thick horizontal-stripe sweater by Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst is an announcement piece that doesn't make an excessive amount of of an announcement. As glorious with a pair of slim-cut chinos or pinwale cords in a pale shade as along with your favorite pair of denims, it's all about leaning into the consolation in terms of this piece.” TvdB

11. Eighties-inspired suiting

This season’s massively outsized, Eighties-style, double-breasted fits can be simply the factor when you’ve placed on a bit further weight throughout lockdown. Designed to be worn open and both as a part of a swimsuit or with informal separates (see British tailoring model E Tautz for inspiration), the baggier your swimsuit is the higher. Simply guarantee your jacket matches within the shoulders, as those who walked the runway at Zegna and Dolce & Gabbana did, and that your lapels are peaked (see Casablanca and Etro) and also you gained’t go too far incorrect. The pink braces, nevertheless, needs to be left within the closet.

The killer piece

The styling word

"The important thing to nailing the Eighties development is to put on your blazer broad within the shoulder and flappy within the center. This high-lapel possibility from Korean model Wooyoungmi does the trick with out wanting like a pastiche. There's a modernity to the label's seasonal menswear choices that hold them feeling related. Put on with some white denims for full Miami Vice meets Madonna vibes.” TvdB

12. Addams Household tailoring

Maybe the best SS21 development to tug off: everybody seems nice in a sharply reduce black swimsuit. At Prada, Miuccia confirmed a razor-edged paean to the color black, with sylphlike fashions stalking out within the form of angular tailoring Gomez would kill for. The look continued at Philipp Plein, Dsquared2 and Salvatore Ferragamo, with pin-sharp fits and coats that wouldn’t have seemed misplaced on a Hedi Slimane Dior Homme runway circa 2001. At Jil Sander, outsized black greatcoats and blazers hung off fashions’ shoulders, emanating a way of lazy thriller Morticia can be pleased with. 

The killer piece

The styling word

“Worn as a part of a traditional black-tie getup – although with the reduce of this jacket I'd suggest an air over a bow tie – or with a black T-shirt and black denims, this dinner jacket is a key wardrobe funding for anybody hoping to realize that traditional 'Serge Gainsbourg consuming in Saint Germain on Sunday morning' look." TvdB

13. Acid pops of color

Along with the softness of pastels and the punch of neon, pops of acid hue have been proven on lots of the runways in London, Paris and Milan. From the wealthy injections of hemoglobin at Fendi to shades of chartreuse at Versace, magenta at Tom Ford and traffic-cone orange at Burberry, hardcore color was the order of the month – which, if nothing else, helped the seems stand out on display, the place they have been predominantly seen.

The killer piece

The styling word

“Acid pop items look nice teamed with strong, monochromatic neutrals – suppose whites and blacks reasonably than beiges and greys. This outsized 'Trade Child' pink hooded sweater from Balenciaga, subsequently, will look its greatest worn with some white denims, black and white checkerboard Vans slipons and a pair of Oakley Prism biking sun shades. Belief me." TvdB

14. Vests underneath fits

Along with outsized Eighties fits and funereal tailoring, roomy two-pieces in muted shades got here worn with V-neck sweaters, vests and wraparound kimono-style shirts, all of which have been designed expressly to point out as a lot mannequin chest as doable. The look was at its most revealing at Tom Ford and Giorgio Armani, with extra elegant takes seen at Mark Weston’s barnstorming present for Dunhill and Paul Andrew’s for Salvatore Ferragamo. 

The killer piece

The styling word

“The clue's within the title." TvdB

15. Recent florals

Florals? For spring? You understand the drill. For Spring/Summer season 2021, nevertheless, the look is extra masculine than floaty. With digitised takes on Aloha prints and ephemeral interpretations of the shape coming to the fore, florals have by no means seemed brisker. At Tom Ford and Paul Smith, shiny and daring hibiscus patterns had a Nineteen Seventies-era wallpaper enchantment, whereas at Burberry, Giorgio Armani and Fendi the look was altogether extra summary (and considerably simpler to put on for it).

The killer piece

The styling word

“In the event you're not feeling all that assured about bearing your arms following the tyranny inflicted on our our bodies through the varied lockdowns, then throw on a wide-lapelled blazer with this sleeveless floral sweater from Gucci's re-released 2015 assortment and lean into the Nineteen Seventies curtains aesthetic. Oh, and put money into the pair of pretend Astrakhan sandals from the identical assortment, for good measure. In the event you don't, I’ll. " TvdB

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